Home » DIY Clothing labels – part 2 – how to make them

DIY Clothing labels – part 2 – how to make them

This is part 2 of my 3 part label tutorial for textiles like clothing and bedding.  Here are the 3 chapters:

part 1 – what to say (or what the FTC wants you to put on your labels)

part 2 – how to make them (DIY process of printing & cutting the labels on fabric)  [you are here]

part 3 – how to attach them (considerations for comfortable labels)

This photo tutorial will walk you through how to print your own fabric labels and some lessons I’ve learned along the way.  The method I’m using cost around 4 cents per 1″ X 2″ label.  The cheapest I’ve seen labels like this is 25 cents per label unless you buy in large quantities, so making your own is worth the time if you don’t have the money.

labels printed on cream cotton jersey and white silk habatoi

Step 1 – choose your treated fabric for your labels.

In order for your printer ink to stain the fibers and last, you must use 100% natural fibers.  Synthetic fabrics or blends will not work because they are essentially like plastic and your printer ink bounces right off of them.  Natural fibers are more porus and absorb the ink.

If you don’t want to treat the fabric yourself, you can buy pretreated fabric sheets for your printer at craft stores or google them.  Make sure you buy the kind that are washable!  They generally cost around $2 per sheet.  If you treat your own fabric it is more like $1 per sheet.  Buy some Bubble Jet Set, Bubble Jet Set rinse, and freezer paper to treat your own fabric.  I paid $40 for those 3 items with shipping included and it treats about 50 8.5×11″ sheets of fabric.  Making your own sheets means you can pick your own fabric.  (update 3/18/10 – I just came across a homemade recipe for soaking fabric sheets to make them take the printer ink but I haven’t tried this recipe yet.  Follow this link to the  DIY recipe for making printer fabric sheets.  If it works, it replaces the bubble jet set in the method I’ve used for making labels.)

bubble jet set

And here is why picking your own fabric is important:  you want your clothing labels to be comfortable when the garment is worn, and you don’t want them to unravel.  If you buy pre-made sheets of cotton or silk, they will unravel.  If you treat the edges with fray check, you just made your labels scratchy.  Have you ever felt stiff fray check on your back?  It sucks.

I’ve got 2 fabric options for making your own labels that are comfortable:

  1. use cotton jersey.  It’s soft and won’t unravel.  I’ve had good printing results with it if you print in the right direction.
  2. use cotton muslin, poplin or even silk, and cut your fabric sheets on the bias.  The diagonal cut of the labels will keep them from unravelling so fray check is  not needed.  I will admit I haven’t done these yet, but I’ve made many a fabric patch or bias trim and the bias (45% angle from the selvedge edge) cut of fabric will not fall apart on you.

I’ve used cotton jersey and silk habatoi for this tutorial.  I have also used muslin with good results.  Choose a fabric that works with the look and feel of your product.  Although I only print black on my labels, you can use color.  Choose a white fabric if you will be printing in color to avoid color shift.  You can also choose a light color or light print fabric.  You have many options when you treat the fabric yourself.

Step 2 – Treat the fabric

I’m not going to detail this process.  Either you buy the pretreated sheets or you buy the bubble jet set and make your own.  Bubble jet set has very good instructions on the bottle.  Just follow those.  The only thing I can add is that I didn’t use rubber gloves, I layer several sheets of fabric on top of each other in a baking dish, and I squeeze out the excess solution and pour it back into the bottle using a funnel.  There.  That step was easy!

If you’re making your own sheets, wait for the fabric to dry, iron it flat, then iron the freezer paper onto it.  Make sure there are no edges of fabric hanging over the freezer paper since this could jam in your printer.

Step 3 – Design and print your labels

I’m assuming you already read part 1 about what information your labels need to include.  That info is important considering the $11,000 fines if your neglect it.  So make sure you know what laws govern your textile labels.  Now you need to fit that info onto a few inches of fabric.   You don’t need to be a graphic designer for this part, but I expect your labels will look much better if you ARE a graphic designer.

Avery software

I use Avery label making software.  The Avery website has multiple options for label templates.  You could also use label templates in Microsoft Word, or Open Office, or Google documents.  You get the picture.  Use a template for mailing labels and this part will go pretty easy.  You can design these any way you want with backgrounds, graphics, photos, text and all kinds of neat stuff.  I keep my labels simple because it goes with the look and feel of my shop.  Keep your branding in mind with label designs.

You get to choose the size of your labels.  I decided to use the 1″ X 2 5/8″ mailing labels that are 30 per page.  Just choose any size that works for you whether it’s mailing labels, business cards or anything else.  The software doesn’t care what medium you actually print on, this is just to get your layout.  I use the first column for my business name, the 2nd column for origin, content and size (I call it OCS for short), then the 3rd column is for care instructions and my RN & website.   If you want to choose a bigger label and put everything in one place – that is your design decision.   There are many possibilities for label size, folded or not folded, and you can have multiple labels on a garment.

Avery label

Here is the print preview of the labels I designed and then the labels that came out of my inkjet printer.  I set my printer to use “best” quality so it shoots more ink on the fabric than the “normal” mode.  If you’re using color, you might even want to set it to “photograph” which puts even MORE ink on there.  But keep in mind that printer ink is expensive and you don’t want to wash all that ink down the drain during the rinsing step.

print preview


Step 4 – cutting labels to size

Here’s where some common quilters equipment comes in very handy.  I use a rotary cutter, cutting mat, and a clear quilters ruler to chop up my sheet of labels.  You can certainly do this with scissors, but it won’t be as clean and it may cramp your hand.  The label making software should have a printing option to print lines or points.  I use the points so there are tiny dots at the corners of the labels and this helps with the cutting step.  Because of the way I designed my labels to fold for the content and care sections, I don’t cut those apart.  So keep your design in mind when cutting.

Keep the freezer paper backing on until you’re ready to rinse.  It makes it easier to cut the labels apart with the stiff paper in place.

cutting labels apart

This next thing is optional and not recommended by me, but I had to do it because I made silk sheets that were not bias cut.  Below I’m dipping the silk labels in fray check and then I lay them on paper to dry.

dipping silk labels in fray check

Now that labels are cut (and fray checked is dry) I’m ready to rinse them.  Peel the paper backing off the label, then you’re ready to rinse them.

Step 5 – Rinse the labels

I always clean my sink before and after this step.   This part is easy, just put a little warm water in the sink with a capful or 2 of bubble jet set rinse, add the labels and gently swish them around for a bit.   Notice how the water looks dirty?  This is the excess ink.  By using the bubble jet set rinse, it keeps that ink suspended in the water rather than going back on your labels.  I like to remove the labels, drain the water, then rinse them 2 more times in plain cool water.  Make sure you don’t open the sink drain when ANY labels are still in there.  They’ll get sucked right down the drain and probably clog it.

There are 3 sheets worth of labels in my bathroom sink here:

rinsing in a sink with bubble jet set rinse

When I remove the labels from the sink, I just squeeze them with my fist to get the excess water out.  If you printed photos you may want to be carful with the squeezing, but for my black printing I’ve never had a problem.

The last thing I need to do is lay the labels flat to dry out.  I just lay them out on a towel over night.  After that, they’re ready to use.   This is a good time to reward yourself for all this work.  I recommend a Stewart’s Key Lime soda like in the photo.  It’s not necessary to the job, but it sure is delicious!

Lay the labels on a towel to let them dry

You may want to iron your labels to remove wrinkles after this.  It’s not needed for the cotton jersey, but I iron the muslin and silk ones to flatten them and to put a crease where I fold the care labels.

Done!  Now store them away

Here’s a closeup of my labels if you want to see how I arrange my info and how the printing turns out.  There are the ones with my business name, then the content and care strip which gets folded.  This batch of 3 sheets had about 6 or 7 different contents.

And I should note something about the cotton jersey labels.  I love the softness of stretch knit and how it doesn’t unravel.  But due to a printing error I learned that the direction of stretch should be parallel to your label text.  You can see below how some jersey labels are darker than others.  The dark ones have the stretch going up and down.  The faded ones stretch across the text and make it look lighter.  Both work, but for best results print your text so that stretching makes a sentence wider and not taller.  Make sense?  Clear as mud?  Good.

jersey and silk label closeup

I’ve also found that the labels store nicely in one of those business card storage sleeves.  I used to throw them all in a box but it took a while to find the right ones for different fabrics.  The sleeves keep them more visible and flat.

I store labels in business card sleeves

That’s it for making your own fabric labels.  I will show how I attach these to clothes (sew in and iron-on) in the next blog post, part 3 – how to attach them.  And I promise that post will be shorter than this one :-)

Got other ideas I didn’t consider?  Please post a comment and share your questions and knowledge.


73 Responses to “DIY Clothing labels – part 2 – how to make them”

  1. […] part 2 – how to make them (DIY process of printing & cutting the labels on fabric) […]

  2. Carol says:

    Thank you for the tutorial, I really appreciate the information!

  3. Diane says:

    Hi Luci,

    Thanks for the tutorial! I’ve been running muslin through printers for the last 15 years using various printers and have had great success. However, the HP 1507 I have now doesn’t like the thickness of the fabric and freezer paper even though it looks very similar to your printer. I’m using the HP transfer setting and hand feeding the sheets and they still jam. I tried spraying heavy starch and that helped some but the jersey seems to want to curl no matter how much pressure I use in ironing to the freezer paper.

    Got any suggestions? Maybe I’m using the wrong settings.



  4. duhbe says:

    Diane –
    I’ll try to give a little more detail on my jersey so maybe that will help with the problem you’re having. I’m going to assume it’s not specific to your printer since you’re able to print on muslin. But it’s very possible a different printer may feed the jersey sheets better.

    I cut the jersey a bit smaller than 8×10 pieces using a cutting mat and rotary cutter, then iron them onto the freezer paper which is already 8×10 size. I’m careful not to stretch the jersey when ironing and there is a little extra freezer paper on the edge so the jersey isn’t hanging over the edge of the freezer paper. (a little wax gets on my iron)

    Other than that, it could be a difference in the jersey fabric we’re using. Mine is 100% cotton (no spandex) and is a medium weight with slight ribbing and 2 way stretch. I could have just gotten lucky with the jersey I’ve been using. When I run out and get new fabric I could have problem too.

    My fabric will curl at the edges, but never has after ironing on to freezer paper. So my last suggestion is maybe we’re using different paper? I’m using the C. Jenkins paper found here http://www.softexpressions.com/software/notions/frzpapr.htm which is very heavy duty.

    Hope that helps, and feel free to post again and let me know if things get better!

  5. Diane says:

    Hey Luci,
    I’ve been cutting the sheets 8 1/2″ x 11 so maybe that is the problem. Another site suggested covering the leading edge with masking tape and that actually worked great. However, the labels still came out messy with about half of the labels smudged with ink.

    My favorite label material is a lovely white cotton damask found at Walmart of all places. I don’t usually shop the Wally World but I’m glad I did because the damask is divine and runs through the printer like any muslin.

    I’ve also ordered some Fabric Magic from http://earthsafefinishes.com/Fabric-Magic.html that I believe might be cheaper than Bubblejet. It’s supposedly used as a fixative for the ink, quilters seem to love the stuff and mere drops make gallons of fixative without change in hand of the fabric.

    I’ll let you know if it works!

  6. Asia Leone says:


    I’m really new at this so I’m a little confused…Please help! So do I buy any fabric I want, cut it in the same size as the freezer paper (8X10) and than run it through the printer? How will the fabric stick to the freezer paper? Where can I get the freezer paper from?

  7. Asia Leone says:

    Ok, I just reread this again and I think I missed the paragraph where you explained it so I get it now! :)

    Do you know if I can get the Bubble Jet set/rince at a store or do I have to order it online? I want to have silk labels for my garments…can I pick any silk fabric and than cut them out in 8X10?

  8. Asia Leone says:

    Sorry for the many questions!! In regards to the freezer paper, is this the same as the ones at the grocery stores? If so, which side do I iron the fabric on? Any tips on that?

    • duhbe says:

      Hi Asia, I don’t mind the questions!

      You can buy freezer paper at some grocery stores, but I buy the heavier stuff already cut in 8×10 sheets at the same online place I get the bubble jet set. I have not found either of those items at local stores in my area – including Joanne, Hancocks, Hobby Lobby, & Micheals. I asked at every store – they don’t have it – and one employee told me she has to get hers online too. Local Quilt shops might have it.

      The freezer paper is waxy on one side, that’s the side to put on your fabric. When you iron it, the wax melts and sticks to the fabric. Very easy.

      Any natural fiber should take the printer ink. 100% silk works great! I advise prewashing fabric before printing on it.

      Let me know if you have more questions.

  9. Asia Leone says:

    Hi there again! Another question — will it work on Satin (100% polyester)? Which website can I buy those products mentioned? Thanks again!

    • duhbe says:

      I got my supplies from Soft Expressions. (search for bubble jet set and you’ll find it.)

      Or you can go to Dharma Trading for the bubble jet set, as well as great prices on silk to print on.

      Polyester or other synthetics will not accept the dye from your printer. You must use 100% natural fabrics like cotton, silk, linen, etc.

  10. Asia Leone says:

    Hi again! =)

    Im just curious if you have ever tried the method of buying printable paper and than iron the logo onto a ribbon? If so will it wash out?

    • duhbe says:

      I think the iron-on labels will last OK if they stay out of hot water and hot dryers. My problem with the iron-on transfer and ribbon is the labels are stiff and scratchy, like a piece of plastic between your shoulder blades (on shirts). So I prefer printing mine on soft cotton jersey instead. But that’s my personal preference.

  11. Sandra says:

    I’m from Portugal and I’ve just found your tutorial about making labels.
    My question is: If I use the pretreated sheets do I have to use the Bubble Jet Set too?
    Thanks for your great tutorial!

    • duhbe says:

      Hi Sandra. If you’re using pre-treated sheets, you don’t need the bubble jet set since it is for making your own sheets with your own fabrics.

      But do be careful about the purchased fabric printable sheets. Some are washable and some are not – so choose based on the type of project you’re doing.

  12. Sandra says:

    Thanks for your help!
    I’m thinking to buy “Jacquard Inkjet Cotton Fabric Sheets” at Soft Expressions.com.
    I need the labels to put inside the pants that I sale on my web site, so they have to be washable!
    I just loved your tutorial! And the tips to organize the labels are great!!!

    • duhbe says:

      Hello again Sandra,

      I just visited your website and I wish you the best of luck with your clothing line for infants in braces for treatment of hip dysplasia. I love how you saw the need, and filled the niche yourself. Let me know if you need any more help with your labels. You are doing something wonderful!

  13. […] Pottery, iSew en DuhBe geven handige en eenvoudige tutorials voor het maken van stoffen […]

  14. Lotta says:

    You don’t have to backstitch to fasten your thread, take a few stitches with stitch length “0” and it’s fastened with a much prettier finish than when backstitching.
    Also I use wooly nylon in the bobbin for a more stretchy straight seam, looks much more pretty than using a zig-zag if you don’t have straight stretch seams on your sewing machine.

  15. Lotta says:

    Oh, and BTW, your tutorial does come up on Google, that’s how I found it…

    Thanks a lot! :)

  16. Asia Leone says:

    hello! Can you tell me when you fray check the silk fabric, did it make it itchy if you were to use it on your clothing? THX!

  17. duhbe says:

    Asia, I really don’t know if the fray check on silk makes the labels itchy since I haven’t worn anything with those labels. I use a very lightweight silk (5mm habatoi) so I think it would be OK. But as a general rule, I think fray-check is too itchy against the skin. Maybe try bias cutting the labels instead? The edges will fray a little but not unravel and come apart.

  18. Asia Leone says:

    Hello I have another question (sorry to keep bugging :)

    So I treated my silk fabric, ironed it on the wax paper…I printed it and the ink came on the fabric wonderfully. I have a bunch more to do but I got busy so I have not ironed the other treated fabrics on the wax paper yet. It has been 4 days. Does treated fabric still work if its left out after being treated for that many days? I’m going to do it again this weekend but wanted to know if I should re-treat my fabric or if I can go ahead iron them on the wax paper and print on them….Please help!

  19. duhbe says:

    Hi Asia, (I don’t mind the questions :-)

    Your treated fabric should be good for a long time. Once you have treated it with bubble jet set and then let it dry – it will stay that way until you wash it, or until it gets too dirty or greasy. Otherwise you should be able to iron it onto wax paper at a much later date. I haven’t tried it, but I see no reason why it shouldn’t work that way.

    Glad to hear your silk printed successfully!

  20. duhbe says:

    Just wanted to update with another comment brought up in another tutorial…

    I use an HP printer to print my labels. I’ve printed both black and color. I have had success printing fabric labels with the generic ink refills from Office Max. I typically let the ink dry a day rather than washing/rinsing right away. There is an excellent FAQ on printer and ink compatibility at Soft Expressions…

    After wearing and washing several of my handmade garments with labels, I can say that the printed labels have lasted very well with a little fading but still very legible. The iron-on labels I had made before have very little text left on them.

    I have a high efficiency washing machine that is rough on clothes – but the printed labels have held up so far.

  21. […] Jet Set 2000 (can you hear the angelical trumpets and choir?). This is the way to go. I found a great tutorial that made me itch to try it, and since I was buying and testing the stuff, I decided that I would […]

  22. Just came across your site. I cannot thank you enough for all th wonderful information. I make girl’s tutu’s. With the new laws I am trying to decide the best way to label them. I have heard of using twill tape and printing on that. Have you heard of that?

  23. duhbe says:

    Hi Angie, and you are welcome.

    Cotton twill tape would need to be treated, and I don’t know how to run it through a printer but have heard other bloggers complain about it. Stamping with fabric ink or paint might work better.

    Many people use iron-on labels with twill tape or ribbon. This works OK for the law, but it is too scratchy for children’s wear in my humble opinion. It doesn’t wash well in the long term, and it will melt gook all over the iron if your customer irons their garment. (I stopped using those labels in favor of printed fabric.)

  24. Pam says:

    Thank you so much for these amazing instructions! My question is in regards to the actual design of the labels… How on earth did you get the font to type sdieways on the label you fold in half? I’m wondering how to manipulate the document to recreate what you’ve done with your labels. Thank you so much again!

    • duhbe says:

      Hi Pam,
      I use an old version of Avery label software for PC that I downloaded from them several years ago. It lets me rotate text boxes in 4 directions. I don’t see that option in the newer Avery version I have on my Mac.

      Look for software that has a text box rotation feature. I’m pretty sure MS word can do that, and you can get free label templates for Word. Or google the words “text box rotation” along with your preferred software to see if it’s possible.

  25. Angie says:

    Thank you for your help. I will have to do more research. I am trying not to label with anything scratchy. I Cannot iron them on to tulle. So I will have to sew them in. I just may have to try the jersey.:)

  26. Pam says:

    I do in fact have the new Office Word. It would not allow me to type upsidedown or rotate the label but I was able to rotate the text to achive the desired result. Once again, you’re amazing!! Thank you for all your help!!

  27. Stephani says:

    Thanks for the tips! I’m going to try the recipe you mention from the idearoom, but I had one question about it vs. your tutorial – has anyone tried the DIY recipe for clothing tags? I see on the other blog that it washes well, but I was wondering if I should use the Bubble Jet Set Rinse step listed here after I print the labels with the homemade recipe? Any thoughts?

    This post was AWESOME, btw! EXACTLY what I was looking for to add tags inexpensively to my items!

    • duhbe says:

      Hi Stephani,

      I don’t know of anyone who has tried the homemade recipe for labels yet, but don’t use it with bubblejet set since they are doing the same thing. If you’re buying the bubble jet set, just use that.

      I would like to try the homemade recipe, and maybe test it against bubble jet through several washings, but I don’t know when I’ll have time to get that far. If anybody else has feedback on this – please post!

  28. Stephani says:

    Well, I made the homemade recipe, so I’ll report back later as to how it washes and wears. I’ve never used the Bubble Jet Set though, so I won’t be able to compare the two. The homemade one WAS incredibly easy; the only box of washing soda I could find was huge for how much you need :) It’s the Alum that will determine the cost of that recipe, but I think it’s still significantly cheaper.

    • duhbe says:

      Keep me posted Stephanie. I have the soda ash from Dharma trading since it’s required for dying cotton anyway. I just bought some alum in the spice aisle so I’ll be trying the recipe soon and I will try to compare it with bubble jet set for an apples to apples comparison if I can.

  29. isabella says:

    I have decided to make my own labels but i went and got stuff tonight before finding your tutorial. I purchased transfermations, design and iron transfer sheets. super soft natural 100% cotton fabric sheets. It does feel super soft, so i have an hp photosmart premium printer specific for color photos, I don’t have an inkjet printer and don’t really know the difference between the 2 types. Having sewn for many years, i do know that for deeper richer color fabric i used vinegar in warm water to set the color so it won’t fade. I wonder if i can do this with these sheets to set the ink or do u know of another way. It doesn’t say if it is washable or not, but they have pics of t-shirts on the front, which u do wash so i am assuming it is washable

    • duhbe says:

      Isabella – I’m not sure what kind of fabric sheets you bought, I’ve never heard of them. The iron-on transfers should work fine.

      Your printer sounds like an inkjet printer. The 2 types are inkjet/bubblejet and laser. Laser printers cannot be used on fabric but inkjet can with varying results based on the ink they use.

      I wouldn’t treat any printable fabric sheets with vinegar, since that will interfere with whatever chemical the sheets were already treated with. The acid in vinegar is used to set certain kinds of dye but I don’t know how it will work with printer inks. I wonder if anybody has experimented with that yet? (I only use vinegar when dying silks, I use washing soda (soda ash) when dying cotton and rayon.)

  30. […] BTW I also liked this tutorial which has an alternate method and some nuts and bolts if you are making clothing http://duhbe.com/blog/?p=632 […]

  31. We http://www.lancerlabels.co.uk supply Iron On labels to many types of customers, I can assure you that our labels will stay on the garment when washed upto 60 Deg C.

  32. Terry Buccat says:


    I’ve tried making these printable fabric sheets and am wondering if you have ever come across the ink smearing when you hand wash the fabric sheet?


    • duhbe says:

      Terry – there are a couple of things that might make the ink smear in the wash.

      First of all – make sure you have properly prepared the fabric for printing. You cannot print onto plain fabric – it must be treated with bubble jet set or similar chemical. It also needs to be 100% natural fibers, since synthetics will repel the inks. (they are essentially plastic and not very porous)

      Make sure the ink has plenty of time to dry. I prefer to dry for 24 hours before I wash my printed sheets.

      The first time the printed fabric gets wet – it is best to use either bubble jet set rinse, or synthropol as the detergent. These will suspend excess ink in the water so they can’t redeposit back onto your fabric. You will get some fading, but it shouldn’t smear or run.

      And if all that doesn’t work and you still get smearing – it is most likely the type of printer ink you have is not compatible with the bubble jet or other setting compound. Changing brands of printer ink cartridge may fix that – try google searching for bubble jet and printer inks. There is a list of compatible inks somewhere on the web.

  33. Sara says:

    I am happily following your instructions for making labels with the Avery software. I’m going to try the handmade recipe for making the fabric ink-settable, then cut some cotton on the bias and print it on that. However, I had this idea for people who want to use pretreated sheets but don’t want the edges to fray: in the Avery software, you can rotate the text so that it is slanted. Surely there is some way you could print off labels that are oriented on the bias – you’d lose some fabric, but you wouldn’t have to use fray-check.

  34. duhbe says:

    You’re right Sara, aligning labels on the bias is a good way to avoid the unraveling threads without yucky fray check. (I don’t even keep fray check anymore, the thought of it makes me itch!)

  35. This tutorial is essential for anyone that makes their own clothing. Having your own clothing tags gives the seller a more professional persona. Thank you for sharing.

  36. This post really helps. Thanks for helping individuals like me in making our own clothing.

  37. Sewingsista says:

    If there was a Sewing Tutorial Oscar you would get it!!

    Best pictures/Best explaination/Best word choice.

  38. Sewingsista says:

    The thought about cutting fabric on the bias is
    a trade secret. Have you ever thought of posting this on you tube?

    Thank you so much, I will try this , THIS WEEKEND!

  39. Joyce says:

    I almost paid way to much for the info you have here for free! Lucky for me the shop went on vacation before I bought her item! I am going to work on this as soon as I can get the Bubble rinse stuff.

  40. Joyce says:

    Is frezzer paper and wax paper the same thing?

  41. Duhbe says:

    @Joyce –

    freezer paper is a heavier form of wax paper. Regular wax paper will probably cause problems for many printers, but the heavier freezer paper feeds through better. So get some freezer paper for this project, either from the grocery store, or buy the pre-cut sheets when you buy your bubble jet solution. Best of luck! It’s easier than it sounds and you’ll be amazed at your custom labels.

  42. Sara says:

    I just wanted to come back and say – that was silly of me to suggest orienting the labels slanted-wise in the software. Of course you just iron the fabric onto the paper on the bias, lol.

    Great tutorial and it worked perfectly with just vinegar, nothing else needed. (This was on cotton – maybe silk will be different? I am trying that next).

    Anyway, thanks again for the great tutorial, I’ve used it a bunch!

  43. christina says:

    HI I make My labels for clothes but I dont treat my fabric..I found out when I put them in washing machine they fade..If i use this Bubble jet set will that water proof my labels so they wont fade in the washing machine?????

  44. duhbe says:

    Christina – yes, treating the fabric will keep the ink from fading so quickly. It will still fade, just not as fast if the fabric is treated vs. untreated.

  45. Michelle says:

    Thank you for this! I’ve spent far too much ordering labels.

  46. Love this way of labeling – thanks!

    To avoid getting your iron gummed up with wax, put the fabric down first on your ironing board, then put the freezer paper on top of it with the wax side down (in contact with the fabric) and iron on the paper side of the freezer paper.

  47. I buy a lot of thrift store items that I cut up to use for various projects so I save the tags to reuse wherever reasonable. Still, I know I will need to have some special ones. In particular, I’ll need one for my store name, FuddyDuds2New (on Etsy.) Thanks Duhbe for your willingness to pass on what you’ve learned!

  48. […] make your own cloth labels with duhbe […]